The festival ends the ill-omened month of Poush, the ninth month of the Bikram calender, when religious ceremonies are forbidden. It is also believed that the days become longer and the nights become shorter after Maghe Sankranti. People offer ghee, chaku and yam on Maghe Sankranti.

In Taruka village, the bulls get a special treat of eggs and rice, preparing them for the fight in the day.

On the way to watch the bull fight

The crowd is gathering

Let the fighting begin!

The bulls take the centre stage

Locking horns

Every year the locals celebrate a carnival from full moon of Dashain to that of Tihar. According to Rajesh Shakya, priest of the temple, it all started when a local cow herder found the statue of Adinath Lokeshwor in Nakkhu River and established it in the temple on top of a hill of Chobhar. Since then every year the Kalash from the temple is filled with water from the Nakkhu River and is offered to the god.

Women perform 5 days fasting known as “Nirjala”, drinking only the holy water from the temple after they have visited and taken bath in the 5 tirthas. There’s a belief that such harsh fasting settles any kinds of dispute between the married couple and ensures a happy married life.

Another attraction of Chobhar is a bathing ceremony held the first day after Ghode Jatra in Nani tole in the presence of the priest. The statue is carried in a chariot by 4 members of Nemkul family from Thasi (small village) to the Nani tole where the statue is bathed with milk. A line of priests belonging to Shakya family have been serving the temple for generations.

Chobhar is a quiet and tranquil small village for a place being so close to Kathmandu; a picture perfect destination for those who crave a little time out from their hectic monotonous life in the city. The simplicity and cheerfulness of the locals, who still live life in its most uncomplicated sense, capture one’s imagination and can bring a pleasant smile even to a most stressed out.
The thick cover of the forest provides an excellent prospect for the bird-watchers and hikers. And for those who enjoy photography or painting, 5am-Chobhar would serve as an enchanting place. The visual landscape and its unique culture is a treat to those who wish to use their images to narrate a story.

Ganesh Temple on the banks of Bagmati river outside the gorges of Chobhar. It is believed that in the ancient times Kathmandu valley was a lake and Manjushree created this gorge through which water from the valley continues to find outlet to this day.

KRISHNA SINJALI  in Jhapa

The movement of Asian Wild elephants (Eliphus Maximus) through the six districts of eastern Nepal has increased to an alarming level in the recent years. The migratory elephants coming from Indian side across the Mechi river has put the local population in jeopardy.

Jhapa’s Bahundangi, Sanischere, Arjundhara, Khudunabari and Mechinagar are the worst affected. According to Nature Conservation Society, Bhahundagi, more than 100 elephants raid crops mainly in Ward 2,8 ,1 and 9 of Bahundangi VDC. The single tusker and small herds of 2 to 5 frequently damage the crops and the houses while the big herds raid the crops mainly during the harvest time.

In the last fifteen years, hundred people have lost their lives and more than 500 houses have been destroyed by the elephants. Similarly, thirty wild elephants have been also killed in 6 districts by the locals.

The fragmentation of forest corridors is the main cause behind  elephants and the humans crossing each other’s path frequently. The unplanned settlement of migrated population in the eastern Terai after the 1950s and increased population thereof, has led to encroachment of their wild habitat.

The land in the area is very fertile and majority of people in the region are farmers. But the loss of crop and property has impacted the growth in this region. Since the attacks by the elephants began in the mid 1990’s, hundreds have been disabled which has directly affected the living of the families. The locals of Bahundangi say nobody wants to visit their area due to elephant scare and even the girls refuse to marry boys from the village. The value of land and property in the area has been consistently decreasing in the last one decade.

Earlier, the government provided little support to the victim of attack by wild animals and the process of claiming support was often more expensive than the support itself. But recently the government announced a compensation of NRs.150,000 per human casualty by wild animals.

However, when it comes to mitigation, the only tangible step taken by the government is the construction of 17 watch towers around the area sensitive to elephant attack. Beside this, the local population lives at the mercy of fire-crackers, sticks and limited fuel from the vehicles used to burn lanterns, to chase the elephants.

Various attempts were made in the past to mitigate the problem but none were sustained. The Elephant Disaster Mitigation Service Center had started bee keeping , bio -fencing and chilly deterrence to prevent the elephants from entering the villages. But the program collapsed due to internal problem. Another local organization initiated solar electric fencing program along the bank of Mechi river with the support of local government office. But the program was never implemented.

Two years ago, the Nature Conservation Society (NCS) was formed and the organization has since been using various methods to resolve the problem. The organization has held awareness raising campaign among the community in the affected area. Four Trans boundary meeting was held in India and Nepal to share ideas and experiences on how to mitigate the problem. The organization even sent a delegation to Indian embassy asking Indian government’s help in dealing with the problem caused by migratory elephants. Currently NCS has formed 15 volunteer groups of local farmers who patrol the river side in the evenings and inform the others in case of elephant attack. The groups have been provide searching light, firecrackers, and cell phones. NCS has also purchased sirens and vehicles fixed with high voltage flood lights to drive the elephants away.

A watch tower made at the entry point

Here they come

House destroyed by wild elephants

Locals take an aim at the elephants

Trucks deployed to chase elephants away

An elephant killed

PICS BY: BIKRAM RAI

Refreshments

Armed Police Force personnel, whose training base is in Halchowk near Swayambhu, make a round of the stupa as their morning drill everyday.

The newly renovated stupa shines in the background as the Armed Police march by.

Swayambhu is a religious site for both Hindu and Buddhist devotees.

The Armed Police Force was established in 2001 to counter the Maoist insurgency. The force has almost 30,000 personnel.

Hundreds of devotees are expected to visit the stupa on Thursday to mark the anniversary of the birth of Gautam Buddha.

See also:
Renewal: a time for change
Buddhaland

More resources on Swayambhu at :
Swayambhu Renovation Project

PHOTOS: Courtesy of Swayambhu Renovation Project Center for Documentation

Read related article: Renewal: a time for change

Historic drawing of Swayambhu and its vicinity. Image by Daniel Wright

Mirror puja to remove the 'essence' of Swayambhu before renovation work started, 2008

Puja to remove the 'essence' of Swayambhu before renovation started

Puja for the reinstallation of the vajra and dharmadhatu mandala before the renovation. July 2008

Since the early 13th century, 14 major restorations of Swayambhu have been undertaken, roughly one every 50 to 100 years.

Over 100 artisans and other individuals participated in the renovation.

Artist Lok Ratna Shakya applying a gold-mercury mix to the a statue from a Toran of Swayambhu.

An artist at work

Workers carry pieces of copper up to the stupa for renovation.

Tibetan Nyingma Meditation Center (USA) provided funding for the renovation, including for 20 kilos of gold.

Swayambhu after the renovation is complete

Read related article: Ashes to ashes

As the village is located far from the bustling cities, the villagers rely on raising their own livestock to feed themselves.

Most of the work done in the village, such as farming and construction, are done manually done by hand or with the aid of animals. The only machine found in the village is the rice processing machine.

The new school building is the most distinguishable landmark in the village with its bright colours. It also towers over the traditional huts, being three storeys tall.

Children play cricket in front of Rastriya Primary School. The school is the only concrete building in the village.

Community leaders Jagaran Praja, also a pastor, and Karna Bahadur B.K. chat with farmer Bhim Bahadur Gurung inside an empty classroom. Schools such as this cater to pre-primary education, before students move on to schools like Rastriya.

A local girl stands amidst wheat fields in the height of harvest season. When school is out, the children will usually assist their parents in the day-to-day chores.

A villager washes up at a manual pump. Groundwater provides a major portion of the village’s water needs. Water tapped this way is unsafe for drinking and has to be boiled and/or filtered beforehand.

Scene at a stall selling women’s garments and accessories.

Dwellings and other structures in Badarjhula are mostly constructed of wood, dried hay and whatever other materials available in the proximity. During the dry season, these structures are extremely susceptible to fire. Due to the poverty and the distance of the village to major towns and cities, development is slow.

Fire rages on the hills bordering India. The entire area faces the risk of widespread destruction by fire, which is almost an annual occurrence. Just last Friday, flames swept through Badarjhula, leaving in its wake houses reduced to ashes.