
Volcanic eruption in Eyjafjallajokull glacier, Iceland. PHOTO: GUDMUNDUR PALL OLAFSSON
I found myself in Jakarta last week as news started coming in of the eruption of Eyjafjallajokull Volcano in Iceland.
Having covered the fury of the eruption of Mt Pinatubo and its aftermath in the Philippines in 1991, there was a feeling of deja vu as the news channels displayed pyroclastic flows and ash clouds soaring into the stratosphere. Sure enough, airports throughout Europe shut down one by one. Trans-Atlantic flights were cancelled. Until press time, no one seemed to know how long it would last.
Pinatubo went on for two weeks. I remember day turning into night and the sight of the snow-like white ash on the streets of Manila. This wasnât soft powder. The wiper in my car made a screeching noise as tiny glass particles scratched the windshield. For weeks, our apartment rocked gently as the eruption set off tremors, and we stopped even noticing the quakes. Airports were closed, highways blocked, and the eruption hastened the departure of the American military from the Philippines after the destruction of military bases at Angeles and Subic Bay. Decades later, lahar floods were still changing the geography of central Luzon.
Yet, Pinatubo was a tiny firework display compared to the eruptions of Tambora in 1815, the famous Krakatoa volcano in 1883 and the super-eruption of Toba 70,000 years ago. All three volcanoes are in Indonesia, and were cataclysms with long-term global impact. The Toba mega-volcano was so violent the planet was shrouded in a dust cloud and the sun didnât shine for ten years setting off a mini-Ice Age. Deposits of ash up to 6 metres deep can still be detected in the Malaya peninsula. Much life on the planet became extinct and emerging humans were nearly wiped out. Those complaining about Eyjafjallajokull should be glad it isnât a Toba.
In 1815, it was the turn of Mt Tambora on the Indonesian island of Sumbawa, the largest volcanic eruption in recorded history. Ash fell throughout Southeast Asia killing nearly 80,000 people. With the sun blocked off, 1816 was known as the âyear without summerâ all over the world. There was a famine and starvation spread across Asia and Europe. A Tambora today is unthinkable, but it could happen any day.
Those whose interest in volcanoes has been piqued by this weekâs eruption in Iceland should get hold of Simon Winchesterâs fascinating book, Krakatoa, The Day the World Exploded. The explosive eruption of Krakatoa 127 years ago wiped out a mountain and an entire chunk of an island in the Sunda Strait between Sumatra and Java. The explosion was heard 4,000 km away in Madras, âthe loudest sound ever heard by human earsâ. A tsunami 80-100m high killed 40,000 people and obliterated entire towns. Today it would kill at least 4 million. Winchester says this was the first âglobal eventâ because it coincided with the development of the telegraph and the laying of the first under sea cable linking Asia with Europe. Sketchy news of the eruption reached Europe nearly as it happened. The apocalyptic disaster turned some Indonesian Muslims into fundamentalists, and gave birth to Asiaâs first anti-colonial independence movement.
Winchesterâs most chilling prediction is that the pressure will build up again in the magma chamber below Krakatoa, and there will be another eruption. It may be tomorrow, or it may be 100 years from now. If it is not Krakatoa, it will be one of the hundreds of active super volcanoes in Indonesia, Alaska or even the caldera in the Yellowstone National Park.
Our wars, the petty geopolitics, the competition for natural resources, globalisation and even climate change will pale in comparison to the planetary cataclysm that will befall us one day soon. This was the thought racing through my mind as our plane took off from Jakarta last Tuesday and we looked down at the inky blue Sunda Strait merging with an azure sky and, far off in the distance between the green expanses of Sumatra and Java, the tiny island known as Anak Krakatoa (the son of Krakatoa). Everything looked idyllic but from this point on the morning of 27 August 1883, it must have looked like the end of the world.

The ash is extremely fine and therefore ittravels far and wide. The black cloud on the right is the ash that just sits in the air. PHOTO: GUDMUNDUR PALL OLAFSSON

See also:
Gudmundur Pall Olafsson’s photographs of the Annapurna



Amazing photographs., both these and the previous one from the Annapurnas in last week’s Nepali Times:
http://www.nepalitimes.com.np/issue/2010/04/09/Nation/16975
How true, all our global crises will pale when there is another toba-type megavolcano and a ten year volcanic winter. It will make Eyjafjallajokull look like a picnic.
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Simply fabulus fotos, Gudmundur, the best I have see so far of the Iceland vulcanic activity! And another nice blog by Dixit.
great shot….. looks like dragonfly clouds….. globe’s on earth.yoga, mass.tiff breathing…. Sha.head ball on saw.head gate, bomb.gali on Kong.gali….. natural.bee.have.your …… of hope.bahadur, bait chait….. on dragon.fish much much peacefull than
“Our wars, the petty geopolitics, the competition for natural resources, globalisation and even climate change will pale in comparison to the planetary cataclysm that will befall us one day soon.”
Well said, sir!
Dear Mr. Dixit,
Firstly, apologies for âmisusingâ your space. But, then, being currently outside the Kathmandu Valley, this was the only option I had. The regular Nepali Times âchannelâ would have been an option. But ever since a letter of mine went unnoticed more than a month ago, I am not too sure.
I have an article which is a reaction of sort (but much more, Iâd like to think) to Rabi Thapaâs Miss âMangolâ. In fact, I intended it initially as a âletterâ but changed my mind. I hope it is good enough to find space in your paper. I am also sending you the aforementioned letter which was my reaction to Vijay Lamaâs article(s). I am curious to know if it was just too bad or politically incorrect to be ignored.
By the way, just a couple of days ago, I was browsing Google Earth when I came across a caption which pointed at a helicopter wreckage above the Lukchi Valley, southwest of the Popti Pass. Might it be that of the as-yet-untraced helicopter (if Iâm not wrong) which went missing in the Makalu area a couple of years back? The coordinates of the site on Google Earth are roughly 27*47â33.20âN 87*17â19.98âE; elev. 12960ft. or about. Iâd like to think that Google Earth has no place for hoaxes.
Now, here goes the article.
The âMangolsâ Are Coming? â Let Them!
Firstly, let me say that Iâm completely at one with Rabi Thapa in his first two paragraphs. But what gets my pig (to paraphrase his expression) is the remainder of his article. This is one of the most bigoted articles Iâve come across in recent times. What is worse is that though he tries to play safe by declaring his impartiality, his prejudice and sneer are all too palpable.
Let me paraphrase one of Mr. Thapaâs lines. Why does the term (i wouldnât call it idiotic) âAryanâ claim roots thousands of kilometers away, on the other side of the Black Sea (if Iâve got my facts correct)? It is exactly because it has been established that the Aryans originated somewhere around there. Just as it has been established that the Mongoloids (Mangol? It appears deliberately mocking) originated in the region between Siberia and Northern Asia, on the other side of the Great Walls of China. It should make Mr. Thapa justifiably proud that if not everyone, then at least Bahuns and Chhetris can claim an identity different from that of the âMangolsâ. As for the Maoist hypocrisy regarding Mr. Thapaâs condescending âa-dime-a-dozen-Miss- fill-in-the-ethnic-blank-unless-you-are-Bahun-or-Chhetriâpageants, all he has to do is ask the exasperatingly-exclusive-Bahun- leadership â of -yes-even-the-proletariats why they need to do so. Sadly, the Chepang and the Chamar (to name just a few) have yet to render themselves visible on the socio-political radar to have the luxury of making farciful and chauvinistic attempts at self-assertion through something like a âMiss Mangolâ. And Iâm not being sarcastic here.
I donât know what the requisites of Miss âMangolâ are. Nor do I care. Of course, it may be absurd. In fact, if what rabi thapa says is true, I say it is absolutely absurd. But arenât all beauty pageants by extension so.
Now, let me tie myself in loops using Mr. Thapaâs logic and argument. Why debar males from Miss Nepal? Why canât I take part in a Chhetri Dewaali? Why should all those slaughtered goats, fowl etc. that are spared the Dewaali festivity( so to speak) need to be buried instead of giving it to fellow Nepalis(and not a few) who seriously need to supplant their meager diet with some direly-needed protein? Why should yours truly, a Rai and a male at that, be debarred from a Newar Guphaa ceremony? Why should we be barefoot while entering temples filthier than oneâs well-beaten trekking boots? Why should only Hindus be allowed inside Pashupatinath? Why is it that we have no qualms about wearing clothes sewn by the Damai but need to cleanse ourselves of their touch? Why do I need a high school certificate to attend graduation courses? Why canât I play alongside Xavi, Messi &Co. in the Nou Camp? I long to jam with Neil Young & Crazy Horse. Why canât I be a part of the National Planning Commission? The Americans should be serious about making me a part of their lunar mission in search of the âman on the moonâ. Just because the âMangolâoids are less hairy (in general) than their Aryan brethren, should it mean that the former are higher up the evolutionary order? Why isnât Borat Sagdilyev behind bars? Why shouldnât(or didnât) The Vatican object to Samuel âJulesâ Jacksonâs profane Ezekiel in Pulp Fiction? I could go on and on, courtesy Rabi Thapa.
Of course, I may be retorted that you are being too wishful here. That you are not good or qualified enough. That some of your questions are stupid enough to make The Three Stooges look positively enlightened. And Iâm (im) modest enough to more than accept these truisms. One could argue that what one requires for Miss Mongol (or any other such farces) is superficial to the ârealâ criteria that presumably apply for football, music, culture, religion, astronomy or other such âmeaningfulâ stuff. But then, isnât it true that what one terms as superficial and by contrast, real is nothing more than arbitrary and relative? And in a way, subjective. Even then, arenât these entire criterion (and questions) variant only in degrees â of rationality? Besides, donât absurdities have their own logic (however we may disagree)? â so to speak.
Just because I wonât be accommodated in certain tamaashaas â both farciful and presumably âseriousâ â doesnât mean that it gives me the freedom to be overanalytical and see something sinister and conspirational about them. Or find the excuses that such âeasyâ targets provide to vent my prejudice and spleen. They are just categories with their own criterion-however absurd they may be or may seem â and thatâs that. Nothing more, nothing less.
There indeed is something called overinterpretation. Just because one has an aptitude at playing with words doesnât mean that it provides us with a license to overplay it. If we analyse stupidities as microscopically as Rabi Thapa does, we are bound to end up finding nothing else than absurdities. It is as ultimately as futile an exercise as attempting to skin the hair. Let me have the temerity of translating Indra Bahadur Rai through his Bhudev, that fiery orator from Aaja Ramitaa Chha â âtaile aafnai baabulaai pani raamrari ekohoro laayera herirahis bhane ekchhinmaa arkai kohi manchhe jasto lagchha, tyati bela baabu chhaina bhannoo (Even your own old man will seem like an alien if you look at him too closely â through his nose .Do you then say that he is not your daddy dearest?)â
Just because Miss âMangolâ debars Chhetri-Bahuns (I donât know) doesnât mean that one has to be bitter about it. Even if it does, so what? In fact, I say, why be bitter about being denied entry into absurdities? Isnât it healthier to have a good laugh about the âMangolâ âs misplaced assertion of their identity or treat them as bad jokes, as they should be? Iâm not good enough to find succinct replacements in the Bardâs language for our Nepali expression âsaano chit-taâ. In fact, if one has to be bitter, letâs be bitter over more meaningful stuff. Like how more than 90% of Nepalâs bureaucracy is dominated by communities making up no more than 25% of the population. Please, no excuses about ethnic communities being slothful, more attracted towards being âlahureyâ and to the easy life, whatever that may imply. While there are some random truths behind generalization of communities (even societies), socio-history is an aspect which needs more serious excavation in this regard. Like who sent the so-called martial communities to the killing fields in the first place? Ask Pashupati Rana why the Tamangs were debarred from enlisting in the imperial army? In fact, the Tamangs around the Kathmandu Valley turn that simplistic development axiom â that you need to be near power centres to prosper -around its head. Contrast the valley Tamangs with those in and from Darjeeling. I donât need to even talk about the Dalits, those wretched of the earth. Besides, one should take care to remember that generalization (especially of the negative variety) is a two-way traffic. Remember, what is sauce for the goose is sauce for the gander!
As for Mr .Thapaâs concern (?) about the negativity pervading the ethnic movement in Nepal, it is sadly an almost natural trajectory that is followed by such socio-cultural movements. Unless, of course, the leaders are in the mould of a Jefferson, Periyar or a Sub-Commandante Marcos. Unluckily, they are exceptions (to the extreme) rather than the rule. Unfortunately, it takes jingoism and shrillness â initially- to make such movements visible and legitimate to their communities â largely illiterate, emotional and nursing grievances (real or imagined) â and by extension, the larger public. Only then are they accepted by their audience and able to gain the necessary confidence and legitimacy to tone down the rhetoric and articulate their ârealâ issues. It is then that sane voices prevail. Mr. Thapa should understand that Nepalâs ethnic movement is yet to step completely into this second phase. Till such time, fear-mongering, especially by and from the powers-that-be, is a luxury we the nation canât afford. And whatâs more, Harka Gurung is not with us. Of course, it is more than debatable if the larger ethnic movement in Nepal is regressive and jingoistic.
By the way, I read this week that a cricket tournament is being held in Tundikhel, exclusively only for Maarwaaris. Iâm sure it too has got Rabi Thapaâs goat. Mr. Thapa, euta koora sodhna mun lagyo? Have you ever been to a Kirati Saakelaa in Tundikhel (or anywhere else)? Let me say that it is open to everybody. And I mean Everybody. Iâm willing to bet my pig you have not. Should this mean that you are biased against ethnic communities? Of course, not. Lastly, a confession. I have never ever been to a Saakelaa myself. Does this imply that Iâm embarrassed to identify myself as a Rai, from the Thulung tribe and the Tongdochyo clan? That Iâve betrayed my community? Let me declare that there is no prouder Rai and a Nepali than yours truly.
Now, the letter.
The more I meet Vijay Lama in Nepali Times, the more irritating he
gets. Even with his feet on the ground, he seems unable to let go off
his birdâs-eye view of Nepali society. Not the clarity and precision
that it normally denotes but the jaundiced one of missing or worse,
ignoring the all too numerous, obvious and visible troughs and ridges
that dot Nepali society. His pilot training seems to have condemned
him to see everything on the same plane (pun unintended). His attempt
at masking his shallowness with an overtly romantic notion of Nepali
society is pathetic. Whatâs worse is his brown sahib statement about
the rural Nepaliâs mindset. His romantic harking back to Nepalâs past
would have been harmless and indulgent at best were it not for the
extreme pessimism he shows for Nepalâs present and by extension,
future. As if to compensate, he makes a futile attempt at masking his
cynicism with kennedyian rhetoric.
It is a truism that Nepali society has been relatively tolerant and
accommodating. But, it can be said to be a feature of almost every
hill society. But, this fact doesnât and shouldnât mask the
discrimination, injustice and inequity that have plagued Nepali
society. Mr. Lama should know and understand that what Nepal is going
through now is a reflection of the fissures that have developed and
accumulated through its history. Every society has had to undergo such
painful, but necessary, catharsis before evolving into a more just,
equitable and saner version of itself. It is a baptism that Nepal too
is condemned to endure.
Sure, we really are living in interesting times. But, it canât be
whisked off by pouring contempt and rage at the hapless and always
easy-to-blame politician for spoiling his lost utopia like Mr. Lama
does. The least we can do as responsible Nepalis is analyze events
with nuance, a critical but sympathetic eye (to borrow a line from the
blurb of a Nepali scholarâs book) and conducting ourselves in its
spirit. And not looking back to a romantic past that never was.
Lastly, Mr. Lama needs serious reminding that he is an atypical Nepali
who has the luxury of always coming back to his comforts after eating
away his blues â with pure chainpurey ghiu.
I like your writing but i have the same question for you, aren’t you guys going more and more communal by the activities like miss mongol ? Pashupati Rana didn’t stop tamangs to be in the Army, You should ask Chandra Sumsher Rana, who died eighty years ago..!! things are changing, i don’t know why you guys have such bitter feeling about bramhin and chettries ?? i come from the same clan and i am the tenth generation in this country called Nepal that means i belong to an ethnic group..!! I swear non of my generation has ever Oppressed any MONGOL ethnic group , I was amazed to see the calander published by Nepal Federation of Ethnic groups..!! in the calender there were photos of almost every ethnic group execpt baramhin and chettri..!! i asked myself after seeing where do i belong ?? you guys are making us strangers not we..!! and its strange you relate you guys with Mongolians..!! I don’t want to discuss who we are, I am a nepali now and living in this land that’s my identity and i want to carry that. Rabi Thapa has raised a proper question which you have to answer..!! things have been changed man, A GURUNG is leading nepali army , another GURUNG is the composer of national anthem a RAI is the lyricist of national anthem..!! and i respect all these guys..! You talked about marwaris and their ghetto but you too are in a ghetto, why not to break this and do a Bramhin Chettris (the clan you guys hate) and You people together a common dinner where we can talk to each other and try to understand each other, where i can request the Federation of Ethnic group to put our photos too in the calender.
hi…..
your story is nice. we truly are living in riveting times. But, it can’t be
whisked off by pouring contempt and choler at the poor and ever
easy-to-blame politico for spoiling his wasted sion equivalent Mr. Lama
does. The lowest we can do as amenable Nepalis is psychoanalyze events
with signification, a indispensable but kind eye (to have a differentiation from the
blurb of a Nepali scholar’s playscript) and conducting ourselves in its
feeling. And not superficial affirm to a idiom old that never was.
Lastly, Mr. Lama needs overserious reminding that he is an untypical Nepali
who has the sumptuosity of e’er reaching affirm to his sustenance after consumption
away his megrims – with sublimate chainpurey ghiu.
Thanks for sharing your talent.
Cynthia
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Travelling
Hi there could I quote some of the material from this blog if I link back to you?
[...] East West | Travel Blog by Kunda Dixit | Nepali Times … – Yet, Pinatubo was a tiny firework display compared to the eruptions of Tambora in 1815, the famous Krakatoa volcano in 1883 and the super-eruption of Toba 70000 years ago. All three volcanoes are in Indonesia, and were cataclysms with … [...]